Sunday, June 27, 2010

Grooving with Beadboard


Last time we explored the 18 or so inches of wall space between your lower and upper cabinets and its purpose and potential of a backsplash. The purpose: to protect the wall from water and grease. The potential: a canvas for artwork; a place to display your personality. This week we will dive into the use of beadboard as a backsplash material.

 

The most common type of beadboard used is a ¼” thick sheet with a narrow groove pattern. It can be found at your big box home improvement store or any building supply company. The ¼” beadboard sheet is an inexpensive material and is relatively simple to install. Typically this material is used on porch ceiling, wainscoting in a bathroom or on cabinet ends and doors. Simply cut to size and nail to the wall. You may want to finish out the raw edges with a simple piece of trim.

 

Beadboard can be painted or stained to coordinate with your décor. The darker you go with the color of your backsplash, the more light is absorbed and causes the space to look darker. The lighter it is, the more light it reflects and brightens the space.

 

When considering using beadboard for your backsplash surface, be aware of some maintenance issues. Just like your sheetrock wall behind it, painted or stained beadboard will not stand up to water or grease exposure over time and is likely to show wear. Another common maintenance concern is the small grooves in beadboard are prone to catch whatever might be splashed in their direction and are often difficult to clean. You may want to silicone caulk the join between the bottom of your beadboard and your countertop so no water can escape behind your cabinets.

 

Beadboard is a great look as a backsplash but I would not consider it a long tern solution unless you are prepared to replace or repaint as needed. But in the short term, it can add real charm and character to an otherwise lifeless space.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

The Cherry on Top of a Sundae


Over the past few weeks as I have been working on several kitchen remodeling projects, I have been reminded of the wonderful enhancement a backsplash is to a kitchen. It is the cherry on top of a sundae. The ribbon on a wrapped present. Flowers in the center of your table. A backsplash ties it all together. It makes all of the components of a kitchen feel connected.

 

For most countertops, the only backsplash they have is a 4 inch tall piece of material that matches the top. The purpose of this piece is to protect the wall between your countertop and wall cabinet from splashes and liquids. While this is the standard, you don’t have to stop or settle there. Think of this unused space as a canvas for artwork, another place to display your personality.

 

I always get strange looks when I tell people that for me going into a tile store is like a kid in a candy shop. Ok, that sounds a little nerdy, but it is true. There are so many wonderful and unique materials just waiting to be used in a creative way to make a real statement in your kitchen. Glass, metal, polished stone, crackle porcelain tiles, brick pavers, tumbled stone, natural marble. The options and possibilities are endless.

 

Before you get overwhelmed or start to hyperventilate, take a deep breath. This is no cause for stress. Over the next few weeks we will explore the different materials and the pros and cons associated with each of them. As we begin to walk down this path, start to pay attention to that small space between the lower and upper cabinets and imagine how you would like to make that space the cherry on top of your kitchen sundae.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Stained, Bare or Both


Over the past few weeks, we have been looking at the different ways to change the appearance of your existing cabinet without entirely replacing them. Another way to give your stained cabinets a different look is to scuff or “rub” the stain off of the edges and profiles.

 

Before you begin, make sure you have solid wood doors. This process will not work on plywood doors. Begin with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the edges and profiles until the stain is removed and the bare wood begins to show through. You can sand a lot of stain off or just a little. A consistent look can be created or a more random pattern. Once you have scuffed as much as you want, wipe the excess dust off and apply a clear coat of finish to the entire door or drawer fronts to seal and protect the bare wood. If you need help finding the best clear finish, talk with Ryan and Custom Color.

 

This is a simple process that produces a look that is not often seen. Unlike scuffing painted cabinets where you have the contrast between a paint and wood, now you are creating a contrast between a stain and the actual wood underneath the stain. This process seems to make the most impact when done on a darker stained cabinet, allowing the contrast of the bare wood to really pop out.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Depth and RIchness


Last week we discussed scuffing cabinets as an option for sprucing up existing painted cabinets. But what if you have stained cabinets? What can be done to spruce those up? Is your only option to paint them? What if you just really love your stained cabinets? What if you just cannot bring yourself to paint over your lovely, cherry cabinets? Take heart-there are several things you can do to give your stained cabinets a makeover.

 

One way to achieve a new look on stained cabinets is to glaze them. Otherwise known as “antiquing”, glazing stained cabinets is a great way to give them a richer look and add depth to the finish. Glaze, like a thick paint, is applied all over your doors and cabinets. Then it is wiped off as much or as little until you have achieved the look you are after. The glaze will collect in the profiles of the door creating a shadow and some streaks may be left on the flat surfaces. After you have allowed the glaze to thoroughly dry, apply a clear coat of finish to seal it in and protect your hard work. The most common glaze color used on stained cabinets is a dark brown or black, but you will sometimes see a white or bone glazed used as more of a “whitewash”.

 

As with any finish work, it is important that the surface is properly prepped before applying anything. This may include cleaning, light sanding, stain touch up or even some patch work. Before you being, take a door to a finish professional to make sure you are using the correct product. Ryan at Custom Color is always helpful in finding solutions for a variety of situations.

 

Just like glazing a painted door, this is a very time consuming, tedious process and requires some level of perfectionism. Fortunately on a stained cabinet, the wood and grain are a little more forgiving and allow for some mistakes. You will be amazed at how a simple process will enhance the richness and depth of your stained cabinets.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

When old is new again


Last week we discussed glazing cabinets as an option for sprucing up existing painted cabinets. Another way to give your painted cabinets a new look is to scuff or “rub” the paint off of the edges and profiles. This is a lot simpler process than glazing and is easy to do yourself. When you scuff the paint off of the edges and profiles of your doors and drawer fronts, it allows the grain and color of the wood to show through giving you a wonderful aged look.

 

Before you begin, make sure you have solid wood doors and drawer fronts. This process will not work on MDF(medium density fiberboard; pressboard) or plywood doors. If you scuff the paint off of MDF doors, you will reveal the MDF, which, when exposed to water, swells up like a sponge.  If you scuff, plywood, you will often see the layers and glue used to make the plywood.

 

Begin with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the edges and profiles until the wood begins to show through. You can sand a lot of paint off or just a little. Each door can look consistent or it can be a little more random. Remember, you can always sand more paint off, but you cannot put it back on. Once you have scuffed as much as you want, wipe the excess dust off and then apply a clear coat of finish to the entire door or drawer front to seal and protect the wood. Ryan at Custom Color can help you find the best clear finish product that will work with your existing painted door.

 

The most common color of new cabinets you see scuffed is black. But do not be put off-all colors can be scuffed. I have used black, red, green, white, navy blue, cream and yellow to mention a few and they all turn out looking fantastic. This is one of my favorite ways to give a new look to a great furniture find at a flea market or garage sale. In the end, this is a finish that easily disguises wear and tear and gives you a great aged, worn appearance.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Spring Clean Your Cabinets


Spring is in the air-and so is pollen. With the arrival of spring and warm weather comes our desire to air out the house and spring clean. We want to spruce up, clean up and freshen up the stuffy old things of winter to allow for a bright new spring.  Attaining a fresh new look in your kitchen does not always require a lot of money but with some elbow grease you can achieve a fresh new look.

 

One way to achieve a new look on painted cabinets is to glaze them. Otherwise known as “antiquing”, glazing painted cabinets is a great way to give them a richer, aged look. Glaze, like a thick paint, is applied all over your doors and cabinets. Then it is wiped off as much or as little until you have achieved the look you are after. The glaze will collect in the profiles of the door creating a shadow and some streaks may be left on the flat surfaces. After you have allowed the glaze to thoroughly dry, apply a clear coat of finish to seal it in and protect your hard work.

 

As with any finish work, it is important that the surface is properly prepped before applying anything. This may include cleaning, light sanding, priming or even some patch work. Before you begin, take a door to a paint professional to make sure you are using the correct product. Charles at Custom Color is always helpful in finding solutions for a variety of situations.

 

Beware! This is not for the faint of heart! Glazing is a very time consuming, tedious process and requires some level of perfectionism. But the end result is fabulous! If you are unsure if are up for the task, consider glazing a small vanity first. If after you have finished the vanity and decided that glazing is not for you, call a professional. That’s what I would do and I am a professional!

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Rethinking the Farmhouse Sink


Over the past several years we have seen the trend in kitchens turn back to the old-fashioned look of yesteryear. Old pieces of furniture being turned into islands, painted and distressed cabinets, retro bin or cup pulls on drawers, new things made to look old. And with that trend we have seen the rise in popularity of the farmhouse sink. Otherwise known as an “apron sink”, the farmhouse sink holds lots of visual charm and evokes nostalgia for days gone by.

 

Despite the visual appeal, there are reasons why sinks have evolved away from this design. As one large basin, the original intent was for this sink to act as the wash basin. With the invention of the dishwasher, that main purpose is no longer needed. “But what about my large soup pots,” you say, “I still need a lot of space to wash those.” The farmhouse sink is great for that, but stainless steel sinks offer many options for washing those large, bulky items.

 

Farmhouse sinks are very large, bulky and often times heavy. The most common material used for farmhouse sinks is porcelain. Prone to chipping and very heavy, the porcelain farmhouse sink is what you see used most often today. We also see the invention and rise of use of stainless steel, stone and copper for farmhouse sink materials. Because the weight and unique size of these sinks, additional support and structure is needed to support the installation of such a sink, oftentimes calling for a custom cabinet.

 

One of the most common and most overlooked pitfalls of the farmhouse sink is the water damage often caused. Water can easily drip or spill over the front edge and directly onto the doors or woodwork below it. This repeated exposure to water will cause any finish to lift or crack. If you have a farmhouse sink, it is imperative to be fanatical about wiping up any water or spills to protect the cabinetry.

 

If you desire a farmhouse sink for the charm it evokes, consider other ways to add that charm to your kitchen. Soapstone or marble countertops, antiqued wood or painted finishes and retro hardware all add old fashioned charm without the risk of future damage.