Sunday, December 19, 2010

Dovetail: Worth It?


            Throughout the years, dovetail drawer boxes have been a symbol of quality and durability in furniture. Does that fact still hold true today or is it just an unnecessary added expense?

 

Dovetail drawers boxes are constructed of solid wood with the corners dovetailed, or interlaced like fingers, together. This construction style gives extra strength to the box and offers a longer life for the drawer. When you open the drawer, there have a very finished, pretty look on the sides. Solid wood gives you more opportunities to customize them to match your cabinets. They can be made in any wood species and even stained to match your cabinets. Because they are solid wood, there could be more of a tendency to warp than a drawer box made out of plywood. The material and extra labor needed to produce these drawer boxes makes them more expensive than a plywood box.

 

Another option for the construction of drawer boxes is half inch plywood that is nailed together. Often times the top side of the plywood is edgebanded to clean up the unfinished look of the veneer layers. Depending on the quality of material used and the care taken in putting them together, these drawers could very well last just as long as the dovetail drawer boxes and be just at sturdy. Plywood boxes will run about one third to one fourth the cost of dovetail drawer boxes.

 

In my kitchen, I opted for plywood boxes and was able to use the money that I saved and splurge on my backsplash. Don’t let the absence of dovetail drawers scare you but examine the plywood boxes for durability and stability. You may find that the added expense of dovetail is really not worth it at after all.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Glimmer and Sparkle


            Have you noticed that the hot colors this holiday season are gold, silver, copper and metallics? In shoes, clothes, jewelry and cars. Everywhere you turn something else is sparkling. If a sparkle catches your eye, do not fear, it can even be incorporated into your kitchen or bathroom!

 

A fairly new product, metallic paint, is great for adding a little drama or sparkle to a space. Consider painting the crown molding, baseboard and door trim in a powder room silver. Or the trim in your kitchen copper. If you have a decorative hood cabinet over your range, this is a great spot for some copper. The great thing about the copper paint is that it does not oxidize, so you do not have to continually clean it to keep that polished, shiny look. Paint the backs of some white bookshelves gold and see how your books and knick knacks shine. Or paint the ceiling in your dining room gold. Wow! Impact! It is amazing how far a quart of paint will go and how much impact it can have in a space.

 

Just writing this is getting me excited and my creative juices flowing. I feel a home project coming on! Step outside of your comfort zone and see what fun a little metallic paint can add to your home. What a great way to brighten up your home during the drab, dreary days of winter.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

The Love of My Life


For those who know me well, the title of this article probably really grabbed your attention. No, I do not have a secret boyfriend to announce and I have not gotten a puppy. In my kitchen, the love of my life is my pull out trash can!

 

The pull out trash is attached to and hidden behind a door. I simply pull on the knob and out it comes. The sturdy plastic bin that my bag is placed in is easy to wash out and it keeps my yucky trash hidden from view. I love not having an unsightly trash can sitting at the end of my cabinets or maybe tucked under the sink or far away in my pantry. My pull out trash is directly to the right of my sink, within easy reach when I am cooking.

 

If you are not so fortunate to already have a built in trash can, there may be a way you can add one. Choose a base cabinet with twenty-two inches of depth, about twenty inches of height and widths that can vary from eight to twenty inches. It may be necessary to remove the interior shelf. If you are not sure if your space can handle a built in trash can, email me a picture and I will be happy to offer advice. Purchase a high quality, full extension pull out trash can and door mounting kit from your local hardware store or a cabinet company. Remove the hinge from the chosen door and follow the installation instructions with your chosen trash can. It may be a relatively small expense, but one you are sure not to regret. Try it and see if it becomes the love of your life in your kitchen.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Company Coming?


Ready or not, the holidays are upon us. As this realization hits, we start to make a mental or written list of all the things we need and want to do before the holidays are actually here. Is a kitchen or bathroom remodel on your to do list before the company comes? Maybe you just found out that your home will be the location of this year’s Thanksgiving or Christmas celebration or your broken oven just won’t cut it for baking those cookies.

 

Before you start to panic, take a deep breath and let’s take a realistic look at the calendar. Depending on the amount and magnitude of work that you want to do in your kitchen or bathroom, you can expect a remodel to take anywhere from two to four weeks from demo to final cleanup. Knowing this is the amount of time it could take, you probably are not going to make your Thanksgiving goal.

 

But, you are in luck. If you start your planning and decision making now, you can realistically have a new kitchen or bathroom by Christmas. Consult with the professionals who will be completing this work for you and they will be able to give you a better idea of the time needed to complete your project. Whatever you do, DO NOT plan to wrap up your remodeling project the day before company is expected to arrive. Something might be backordered or take longer than expected and then you will really be up a creek without a paddle or eating your Christmas dinner at Waffle House. The holidays are hectic enough without adding that little bit of stress.

 

As you consider who will be doing the work for you, make sure they have a good reputation, are doing what they say and completing projects in a timely manner. Check their references and don’t let the bottom line make the decision for you. Sometimes there is a reason one person is less expensive than another. The holidays are not a time to risk having issues with a contractor.

 

There are parties to attend or host, food to be prepared, gifts to be wrapped and memories to be made with your family and friends. Take time to slow down and remember that this is the most wonderful time of the year.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Every Last Inch


Who has ever lost something in the back of a drawer only because you could not pull it all the way out to see what was back there? Is your had raised? Mine is. We all have shared that frustration at some point in time. When you consider how to best maximize the space you have in your current cabinets or perhaps the best way to maximize space in new cabinets, one are to take a close look at is the drawers and specifically the drawer slides.

 

The base model drawer slide is a side mount, white, epoxy or roller runner that allows the drawer to extend out approximately three quarters of the way. This style is often found on box cabinets and is a great option for a vanity or cabinets in lesser used spaces. It works great if that is all you have and is better than nothing.

 

If you truly want to maximize and use every last inch of your drawer, the full extension drawer slide is the way to go. A full extension slide is available for side mount or under mount application and in keeping with its name, extends the drawer out all of the way. While it is slightly more expensive than the base model epoxy drawer slide, it is the best investment for organization, use, cleaning and sometimes our sanity.

 

So before you just accept what is given to you, ask the question. Do these drawers have full extension drawer slides? Believe me, it will be well worth the time it takes to ask and the added investment. After all, we all want to use every last inch.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Seal the Deal


One of the most frequent questions I am asked is “I really like granite, but don’t I have to seal it a lot?” My answer is an emphatic “No!” Let’s explore some of the reasons to seal your granite and what it takes to complete the simple process and keep your granite investment looking great for many years to come.

 

Granite is one of the hardest stones and not subject to etching by household cleaners or scratches by knives or pots and pans being drug across the surface. According to the Marble Institute of America, both prior to and after the availability of sealer for granite, no cases of food poisoning, radon or food preparation issues associated with sealed or unsealed granite have been reported. Its natural resistance to bacteria makes it a perfect choice for kitchen countertops. If you clean your tops after each meal, you should not have any issues. A mild soap and water is all that is really needed. Keep in mind that different procedures and cautions are needed when you have marble, travertine, limestone or other porous materials for your countertops.

 

When we purchase granite from Bella Maria, they install the granite pre-sealed. Yay! This means less work for the homeowner right off the bat. That sealer is good for two to three years. They recommend sealing your tops every two to three years after that. Choose a good quality sealer, which you can purchase from Bella Maria. It is a liquid that can be poured or wiped onto your granite. Let it sit and soak in for a few minutes and easily wipe up any excess. It will dry quickly and be ready for use. If you have any questions on application, always consult the manufacturer of your sealer or the fabricator of your countertops. A benefit of sealing your granite is further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant material.

 

See, it’s easy and not something to be frightened by. Go ahead. Invest in a countertop that can outlast you and enjoy the beauty that granite adds to your kitchen.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Wallpaper is Back


Someone recently asked me, “How many topics are there to cover on backsplashes?” Well, Amy, this week we will wrap up our series on backsplashes. Over the past weeks we have discussed beadboard, brick, mirror, stone, glass and metal as possibilities for your backsplash. This week we will explore the newest trend, wallpaper. Who thought we would have ever seen the return of the dreaded wallpaper. It conjures up images of large flowers, mauve, stripes and grass cloth. All of the mess, the peeling, the unrepairable nicks. As many things in life do, wallpaper has come full circle.

 

Choose a unique pattern, bold design or contrasting colors for the most impact. As you may remember from the past wallpaper fiascos, the key to a good wallpaper finish is properly prepping the base surface. Talk with Ryan at Custom Color to assess your situation so they can recommend the best materials. For optimum durability, place tempered glass over top of your wallpaper to protect it from splashes, steam and nicks. If you choose not to use the tempered glass, beware that wallpaper is only a short term solution. Especially with its close proximity to steam and splashes it will not provide lasting durability.

 

I hope these weeks of discussion on backsplash materials have been helpful and inspiring. It is amazing what a small amount of tile or other material has on the overall look and feel of your kitchen. I hope that you too will see that it is the cherry on top of the sundae.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Drama with Metal


“Metal?” you say, “For my backsplash?” I say yes. Whether it is simply metal accent tiles, a liner to set off a more decorative area over your sink or range or the entire backsplash, metal tiles are a great way to add drama and make a statement. Typically, metal is perceived as a cold material. With all of the finishes available, metal tile can provide warmth, age, texture, sleekness or a clean feel to your space.

 

Metal tiles come in all shapes, sizes and finishes. From subway tiles to small round accent tiles to pressed metal sheets resembling antique pressed tin. Stainless steel, copper and bronze metal finishes. The options and possibilities are endless. The care and use of metal tile varies with the manufacturer so make sure you ask about oxidation, scratching, cleaning products and sealing.

 

Metal tile installation will vary be each product and manufacturer. They will give you detailed instructions and recommendations and it is always best to follow their recommendations. Special saw blades may be needed to trim and cut metal tile. Again, the manufacturer or supplier can answer that question for you. It is always better to ask before you begin the project than when you are in the middle of it and find out you do not have the correct materials.

 

Drama can be added to your backsplash with metal tile. Use metal tiles for your entire backsplash or just a few for accents. Either way, you are creating something unique for your home and your space.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Get Glamorous with Glass


So far in our backsplash exploration, we have looked at beadboard, brick, antique mirror and tumbled stone. This week we will look at one of my favorites-glass tile. It can come in many different sizes, from tiny mosaics, to 1x1 tiles, to 3x6 subway tile to a 12x12. And the colors? Well, they are endless.

 

Glass tile is a great way to make a bold statement or just used as an accent. Some glass tiles come in predetermined mosaic patterns. Your glass tile accents can blend with your surrounding tile or you can use a mass of glass tile to make a real statement. The colors, sizes, textures and patterns are endless. Glass tile can work in very traditional spaces, modern spaces and all spaces in between if used wisely.

 

Glass tile installation is very different from other tile installation processes. Different setting materials are often needed. And with all the extra grout joints, it is imperative that it be sealed. It is crucial that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed and the surface is prepped correctly before beginning installation. Special saw blades or cutting devices are needed to trim and cut glass tile. While working with glass tile may seem a little daunting, the staff at Traditions in Tile are always willing to give advice on the best way to work with and install glass tile.

 

Looking for a way to add that little extra glamour to your backsplash? Glass tile may be the way to go. Psst! Glass tile looks great in a shower, too. Let your imagination run free, take a look at what there is to offer and you too may find that you are like a kid in a candy store.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

To Tumble or Not to Tumble?


Probably one of the more common materials for a backsplash is a tumbled stone. It is available in many color and shade variations. Whether it is a 2x2, 4x4, 3x6, mosaic or a myriad of other sizes, tumbled stone is a way to add great texture to your space.

 

Tumbled stone refers to a stone that has worn edges, a rough surface and some color variation. It looks great used alone or with inserts of glass or metal tiles. There are many patterns you can lay it in, depending on the size you end up using. Look in magazines and open houses for inspiration or make your own custom design. Do not be afraid to turn the tile 45 degrees, 90 degrees, lay it in a brick pattern or use another unique pattern. April at Traditions in Tile is wonderful at helping design a layout that will look great with your space.

 

Tumbled stone can be installed and grouted like any other tile. It is porous and requires sealing. Make sure you begin with a good quality sealer. Sealing tile and grout is a simple process that does not require special tools or a lot of time. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the sealer you choose.

 

If you are looking to add some character to your backsplash, tumbled stone is a great way to go. It adds a great “lived in”, natural, welcoming feel and give the space that little “punch” that maybe you are missing.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Antique mirror: Ready for the dump?


When I think of mirror on a backsplash, typically, a bar area or commercial space comes to mind. The trend is using old materials in new ways. Today, let’s consider antique mirror. Old mirror that is tarnished and distressed is a unique surface for a backsplash.

 

Antique mirrors can be found at flea markets, antique stores or maybe your own attic. There are also products you can buy to simulate an antique look on a new mirror. Take your newly discovered mirror to a glass cutting shop and they can cut your large mirror into workable square or rectangular tiles. Make sure you get good sounds advice from Traditions in Tile on the setting material that is needed for the thickness of your new tiles and the surface they are going on.  Then simply lay it as you would any other tile. You will want to grout it with an un-sanded grout so you do not scratch the mirror any more than necessary.

 

Antique mirror is a unique surface which provides a wonderful reflective quality yet you do not have to worry about seeing and cleaning every water spot. This would be a perfect solution to a dark or small space that could use some brightening. It also provides an element of glamour and charm. And who couldn’t use a little bit of glamour and a little more charm?

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Brick: Not just for the exterior


Last time we explored the 18 or so inches of wall space between your lower and upper cabinets and its purpose and potential of a backsplash. The purpose: to protect the wall from water and grease. The potential: a canvas for artwork; a place to display your personality. This week we will dive into the use of beadboard as a backsplash material.

 

The most common type of beadboard used is a ¼” thick sheet with a narrow groove pattern. It can be found at your big box home improvement store or any building supply company. The ¼” beadboard sheet is an inexpensive material and is relatively simple to install. Typically this material is used on porch ceiling, wainscoting in a bathroom or on cabinet ends and doors. Simply cut to size and nail to the wall. You may want to finish out the raw edges with a simple piece of trim.

 

Beadboard can be painted or stained to coordinate with your décor. The darker you go with the color of your backsplash, the more light is absorbed and causes the space to look darker. The lighter it is, the more light it reflects and brightens the space.

 

When considering using beadboard for your backsplash surface, be aware of some maintenance issues. Just like your sheetrock wall behind it, painted or stained beadboard will not stand up to water or grease exposure over time and is likely to show wear. Another common maintenance concern is the small grooves in beadboard are prone to catch whatever might be splashed in their direction and are often difficult to clean. You may want to silicone caulk the join between the bottom of your beadboard and your countertop so no water can escape behind your cabinets.

 

Beadboard is a great look as a backsplash but I would not consider it a long tern solution unless you are prepared to replace or repaint as needed. But in the short term, it can add real charm and character to an otherwise lifeless space.

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Grooving with Beadboard


Last time we explored the 18 or so inches of wall space between your lower and upper cabinets and its purpose and potential of a backsplash. The purpose: to protect the wall from water and grease. The potential: a canvas for artwork; a place to display your personality. This week we will dive into the use of beadboard as a backsplash material.

 

The most common type of beadboard used is a ¼” thick sheet with a narrow groove pattern. It can be found at your big box home improvement store or any building supply company. The ¼” beadboard sheet is an inexpensive material and is relatively simple to install. Typically this material is used on porch ceiling, wainscoting in a bathroom or on cabinet ends and doors. Simply cut to size and nail to the wall. You may want to finish out the raw edges with a simple piece of trim.

 

Beadboard can be painted or stained to coordinate with your décor. The darker you go with the color of your backsplash, the more light is absorbed and causes the space to look darker. The lighter it is, the more light it reflects and brightens the space.

 

When considering using beadboard for your backsplash surface, be aware of some maintenance issues. Just like your sheetrock wall behind it, painted or stained beadboard will not stand up to water or grease exposure over time and is likely to show wear. Another common maintenance concern is the small grooves in beadboard are prone to catch whatever might be splashed in their direction and are often difficult to clean. You may want to silicone caulk the join between the bottom of your beadboard and your countertop so no water can escape behind your cabinets.

 

Beadboard is a great look as a backsplash but I would not consider it a long tern solution unless you are prepared to replace or repaint as needed. But in the short term, it can add real charm and character to an otherwise lifeless space.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

The Cherry on Top of a Sundae


Over the past few weeks as I have been working on several kitchen remodeling projects, I have been reminded of the wonderful enhancement a backsplash is to a kitchen. It is the cherry on top of a sundae. The ribbon on a wrapped present. Flowers in the center of your table. A backsplash ties it all together. It makes all of the components of a kitchen feel connected.

 

For most countertops, the only backsplash they have is a 4 inch tall piece of material that matches the top. The purpose of this piece is to protect the wall between your countertop and wall cabinet from splashes and liquids. While this is the standard, you don’t have to stop or settle there. Think of this unused space as a canvas for artwork, another place to display your personality.

 

I always get strange looks when I tell people that for me going into a tile store is like a kid in a candy shop. Ok, that sounds a little nerdy, but it is true. There are so many wonderful and unique materials just waiting to be used in a creative way to make a real statement in your kitchen. Glass, metal, polished stone, crackle porcelain tiles, brick pavers, tumbled stone, natural marble. The options and possibilities are endless.

 

Before you get overwhelmed or start to hyperventilate, take a deep breath. This is no cause for stress. Over the next few weeks we will explore the different materials and the pros and cons associated with each of them. As we begin to walk down this path, start to pay attention to that small space between the lower and upper cabinets and imagine how you would like to make that space the cherry on top of your kitchen sundae.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Stained, Bare or Both


Over the past few weeks, we have been looking at the different ways to change the appearance of your existing cabinet without entirely replacing them. Another way to give your stained cabinets a different look is to scuff or “rub” the stain off of the edges and profiles.

 

Before you begin, make sure you have solid wood doors. This process will not work on plywood doors. Begin with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the edges and profiles until the stain is removed and the bare wood begins to show through. You can sand a lot of stain off or just a little. A consistent look can be created or a more random pattern. Once you have scuffed as much as you want, wipe the excess dust off and apply a clear coat of finish to the entire door or drawer fronts to seal and protect the bare wood. If you need help finding the best clear finish, talk with Ryan and Custom Color.

 

This is a simple process that produces a look that is not often seen. Unlike scuffing painted cabinets where you have the contrast between a paint and wood, now you are creating a contrast between a stain and the actual wood underneath the stain. This process seems to make the most impact when done on a darker stained cabinet, allowing the contrast of the bare wood to really pop out.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Depth and RIchness


Last week we discussed scuffing cabinets as an option for sprucing up existing painted cabinets. But what if you have stained cabinets? What can be done to spruce those up? Is your only option to paint them? What if you just really love your stained cabinets? What if you just cannot bring yourself to paint over your lovely, cherry cabinets? Take heart-there are several things you can do to give your stained cabinets a makeover.

 

One way to achieve a new look on stained cabinets is to glaze them. Otherwise known as “antiquing”, glazing stained cabinets is a great way to give them a richer look and add depth to the finish. Glaze, like a thick paint, is applied all over your doors and cabinets. Then it is wiped off as much or as little until you have achieved the look you are after. The glaze will collect in the profiles of the door creating a shadow and some streaks may be left on the flat surfaces. After you have allowed the glaze to thoroughly dry, apply a clear coat of finish to seal it in and protect your hard work. The most common glaze color used on stained cabinets is a dark brown or black, but you will sometimes see a white or bone glazed used as more of a “whitewash”.

 

As with any finish work, it is important that the surface is properly prepped before applying anything. This may include cleaning, light sanding, stain touch up or even some patch work. Before you being, take a door to a finish professional to make sure you are using the correct product. Ryan at Custom Color is always helpful in finding solutions for a variety of situations.

 

Just like glazing a painted door, this is a very time consuming, tedious process and requires some level of perfectionism. Fortunately on a stained cabinet, the wood and grain are a little more forgiving and allow for some mistakes. You will be amazed at how a simple process will enhance the richness and depth of your stained cabinets.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

When old is new again


Last week we discussed glazing cabinets as an option for sprucing up existing painted cabinets. Another way to give your painted cabinets a new look is to scuff or “rub” the paint off of the edges and profiles. This is a lot simpler process than glazing and is easy to do yourself. When you scuff the paint off of the edges and profiles of your doors and drawer fronts, it allows the grain and color of the wood to show through giving you a wonderful aged look.

 

Before you begin, make sure you have solid wood doors and drawer fronts. This process will not work on MDF(medium density fiberboard; pressboard) or plywood doors. If you scuff the paint off of MDF doors, you will reveal the MDF, which, when exposed to water, swells up like a sponge.  If you scuff, plywood, you will often see the layers and glue used to make the plywood.

 

Begin with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the edges and profiles until the wood begins to show through. You can sand a lot of paint off or just a little. Each door can look consistent or it can be a little more random. Remember, you can always sand more paint off, but you cannot put it back on. Once you have scuffed as much as you want, wipe the excess dust off and then apply a clear coat of finish to the entire door or drawer front to seal and protect the wood. Ryan at Custom Color can help you find the best clear finish product that will work with your existing painted door.

 

The most common color of new cabinets you see scuffed is black. But do not be put off-all colors can be scuffed. I have used black, red, green, white, navy blue, cream and yellow to mention a few and they all turn out looking fantastic. This is one of my favorite ways to give a new look to a great furniture find at a flea market or garage sale. In the end, this is a finish that easily disguises wear and tear and gives you a great aged, worn appearance.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Spring Clean Your Cabinets


Spring is in the air-and so is pollen. With the arrival of spring and warm weather comes our desire to air out the house and spring clean. We want to spruce up, clean up and freshen up the stuffy old things of winter to allow for a bright new spring.  Attaining a fresh new look in your kitchen does not always require a lot of money but with some elbow grease you can achieve a fresh new look.

 

One way to achieve a new look on painted cabinets is to glaze them. Otherwise known as “antiquing”, glazing painted cabinets is a great way to give them a richer, aged look. Glaze, like a thick paint, is applied all over your doors and cabinets. Then it is wiped off as much or as little until you have achieved the look you are after. The glaze will collect in the profiles of the door creating a shadow and some streaks may be left on the flat surfaces. After you have allowed the glaze to thoroughly dry, apply a clear coat of finish to seal it in and protect your hard work.

 

As with any finish work, it is important that the surface is properly prepped before applying anything. This may include cleaning, light sanding, priming or even some patch work. Before you begin, take a door to a paint professional to make sure you are using the correct product. Charles at Custom Color is always helpful in finding solutions for a variety of situations.

 

Beware! This is not for the faint of heart! Glazing is a very time consuming, tedious process and requires some level of perfectionism. But the end result is fabulous! If you are unsure if are up for the task, consider glazing a small vanity first. If after you have finished the vanity and decided that glazing is not for you, call a professional. That’s what I would do and I am a professional!

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Rethinking the Farmhouse Sink


Over the past several years we have seen the trend in kitchens turn back to the old-fashioned look of yesteryear. Old pieces of furniture being turned into islands, painted and distressed cabinets, retro bin or cup pulls on drawers, new things made to look old. And with that trend we have seen the rise in popularity of the farmhouse sink. Otherwise known as an “apron sink”, the farmhouse sink holds lots of visual charm and evokes nostalgia for days gone by.

 

Despite the visual appeal, there are reasons why sinks have evolved away from this design. As one large basin, the original intent was for this sink to act as the wash basin. With the invention of the dishwasher, that main purpose is no longer needed. “But what about my large soup pots,” you say, “I still need a lot of space to wash those.” The farmhouse sink is great for that, but stainless steel sinks offer many options for washing those large, bulky items.

 

Farmhouse sinks are very large, bulky and often times heavy. The most common material used for farmhouse sinks is porcelain. Prone to chipping and very heavy, the porcelain farmhouse sink is what you see used most often today. We also see the invention and rise of use of stainless steel, stone and copper for farmhouse sink materials. Because the weight and unique size of these sinks, additional support and structure is needed to support the installation of such a sink, oftentimes calling for a custom cabinet.

 

One of the most common and most overlooked pitfalls of the farmhouse sink is the water damage often caused. Water can easily drip or spill over the front edge and directly onto the doors or woodwork below it. This repeated exposure to water will cause any finish to lift or crack. If you have a farmhouse sink, it is imperative to be fanatical about wiping up any water or spills to protect the cabinetry.

 

If you desire a farmhouse sink for the charm it evokes, consider other ways to add that charm to your kitchen. Soapstone or marble countertops, antiqued wood or painted finishes and retro hardware all add old fashioned charm without the risk of future damage.

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Stainless Steel Appliances-Fad or Future?


Opal from Athens is replacing her appliances and asked if stainless steel is the way to go or if there is another trend on the horizon. Over the years we have seen avocado, harvest gold, aqua, pink, white, black and almond appliances. Some of these colors have come and gone, thank goodness, and some colors have stayed. Most recently we are seeing oil rubbed bronze, graphite, cobalt blue, red, black and stainless steel

I foresee stainless steel, black and white remaining as classic appliance finishes. These finishes are great neutral colors that blend well with whatever cabinetry, flooring, countertop color of style you may have.

White appliances blend well with white cabinets while black appliances work well with darker, stained cabinets. Stainless steel is a good neutral that works well with any finish. Stainless steel is viewed as a more upscale, high end finish. Surprisingly, sometimes there is not that much price difference between black and stainless steel appliances. According to Athens Refrigeration and Appliance, you can assume that stainless steel appliances are about 20% more than black appliances.

If you are like me and can’t walk past the red or cobalt blue appliances without yearning for them in your own home, consider them for your laundry room. A fun color in a small and otherwise boring space could really brighten it up. Imagine how happy you would be to do laundry if you had appliances that brought a smile to your face.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Granite: Harmful or Helpful? Effortless or High Maintenance?



Evelyn from Royston has asked about the health risks associated with granite. As the use of granite countertops has grown in popularity, the question has been raised of the possible unsafe levels of radon present.

 

According to a study commissioned by the Marble Institute of America, granite is a minor contributor to radon emissions in homes. The radon concentration is 300 times lower than outdoor air, 1000 times below the concentration found in American homes and 3000 times less than the EPA’s action level for indoor air.

 

Now that we know that granite countertops are perfectly safe, let’s take a look at its other positive characteristics.

 

  • Natural beauty
  • Wide variety of colors and patterns
  • Impervious to heat
  • Resistant to staining
  • Scratch resistant
  • Natural resistance to bacteria

 

Once you have granite countertops, there are a few guidelines for care. According to Bella Maria, a local granite fabricator, their granite is installed pre-sealed and only needs to be sealed once a year. Sealing your granite is a very simple process. Start off with a quality sealer, best found at your granite supplier. Most instructions are as simple as wiping the liquid on, similar to any cleaner, and letting it dry. It dries very quickly and then is ready for use. The best everyday cleaner for granite is hot, soapy water.

 

In the end, granite is a wonderful and very beautiful choice for a kitchen or bathroom. It is hard to beat the natural beauty that nature produces.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Welcome!


Welcome to “Ask the Cabinet Lady”. I hope you are enjoying reading this during a lazy Sunday afternoon, perhaps while enjoying a hot cup of tea. Twice a month we will address issues that pertain to the kitchen, bathroom and other remodeling projects. We will tackle issues such as farmhouse sinks, glazing existing cabinets, closet organization, stainless steel- fad or future, backsplashes and what to don now that you have decided to stay in your home.

“Who are you?” you may ask, and “why should I spend my lazy afternoon with you?” As a certified Associate Kitchen and Bath Designer through the National Kitchen and Bath Association, I am a certified professional with 8 years of kitchen and bath industry experience. As an AKBD through the NKBA, the leading authority of kitchen and bath design, I am the first and only such person in the Athens area to earn this designation. The AKBD designation requires a comprehensive academic examination, continuing education and professional recommendations.

My experience has come primarily through working in our family business, The Cabinet Man, a northeast Georgia firm, specializing in custom cabinetry and kitchen and bath remodeling. I bring a down to earth, common sense, organized approach to each project I work with while trying to achieve the highest quality end result without necessarily breaking the bank.

Well, that’s enough about me. Next time we will get down to brass tacks and learn how to make your house the best home it can be.